22re wiring harness... - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
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Toyota - Truck and 4Runner>22re wiring harness...
Numidian 07:30 AM 07-28-2006
I've got a 1985 4runner w/ a 22re... I was going to do propane, but I've already got EFI and it's $900 cheaper to run what I got :-)

Part of the reason I wanted to do propane was so I could go in and clean out as much wiring as possible... I'm going to pull my dashboard out and I basically want just what it takes to run the truck left...

So I guess my question is... What is REQUIRED to make my engine run? If it's not neccesary I want it gone... I don't have AC and I have a 5-speed... So school me on stripping this pig out...

I also found the vacuum line stuff in the FAQ and I plan on doing all of that as well, but I couldn't find anything for wiring...
[Reply]
ORS 09:10 AM 07-28-2006
Brennan,

As you may have realized, about 40% of that engine circuit is contained in the main body (dash) harness. "Stripping out" can be time consuming and difficult as Toyota thought it would be funny to tangle up all their wires in their harnesses.

The basic electronics that the ECU needs to run the engine include:
-air flow meter
-Ignition stuff
-Injectors and resistor
-Throttle position sensor
-Fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay)
-EFI relay
-Water temp sensor

Some of those circuits are in the body harness, some are in the engine harness, some in both. These are circuits that are not required but I recommend:
-Knock sensor
-Oxygen sensor
-Fuel pressure idle up
-Check engine light

These may be necessary to prevent check engine light, but won't effect the way it runs much:
-Speed sensor
-Stop light switch

If you want to tackle this, I suggest you pick up an EWD (electical wiring diagram), find these circtuits and start weeding out what you decide you don't want. This is not rocket science, but time consuming. I would also suggest you keep track of what you have done in case there are any problems. Your can use a diagram from any 85-88 22R-E setup, the only difference may be in the diagnostic check connector wiring.

If you don't want to mess with this, we manufacture a harness that replaces the body harness with only the EFI circuit. Our harness joins to the ECU and engine harness. It is a simple install and very clean. Check out the product section, under "engine upgrades", of our site for more info.

Whichever way you go, good luck!
[Reply]
JeepRecoveryTeam 09:43 AM 07-28-2006
Originally Posted by ORS:
Brennan,

As you may have realized, about 40% of that engine circuit is contained in the main body (dash) harness. "Stripping out" can be time consuming and difficult as Toyota thought it would be funny to tangle up all their wires in their harnesses.

The basic electronics that the ECU needs to run the engine include:
-air flow meter
-Ignition stuff
-Injectors and resistor
-Throttle position sensor
-Fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay)
-EFI relay
-Water temp sensor

Some of those circuits are in the body harness, some are in the engine harness, some in both. These are circuits that are not required but I recommend:
-Knock sensor
-Oxygen sensor
-Fuel pressure idle up
-Check engine light

These may be necessary to prevent check engine light, but won't effect the way it runs much:
-Speed sensor
-Stop light switch

If you want to tackle this, I suggest you pick up an EWD (electical wiring diagram), find these circtuits and start weeding out what you decide you don't want. This is not rocket science, but time consuming. I would also suggest you keep track of what you have done in case there are any problems. Your can use a diagram from any 85-88 22R-E setup, the only difference may be in the diagnostic check connector wiring.

If you don't want to mess with this, we manufacture a harness that replaces the body harness with only the EFI circuit. Our harness joins to the ECU and engine harness. It is a simple install and very clean. Check out the product section, under "engine upgrades", of our site for more info.

Whichever way you go, good luck!
Good to see you on here Mike.

Dave
[Reply]
HEEPJEEP 01:10 PM 07-28-2006
Do any of you have the pinout for a 1988 22RE computer?

I have weeded just about everything out of the yota that I can other than the motor harness, headlight high and low, tail light, brake light reverse, heater motor, and the dash. Everything else in the harness is gone (surprisingly alot in there that wasn't needed!).

And damn, yota def had a huge mess in there of tangled wires that could have been spliced in much more convenient locations...and the grounds, damn they are all over in loops and all sorts of poop.

I just need a pin out of the computer because I am relocating it back behind the seat and need to lengthen that portion of the wiring harness and shorten the "under hood fuse block" that is now behind the seat also. I know I can cut, splice and keep track of the wires easy enough, but I would also like the pin out just out of curiousity (bc other wise I am going to be tempted to pull the plenum to figure out what is what:-) ).

For an idea, I have about 20 hours in pulling the dash, weeding out wires, making it so all that is under the hood it the coil wiring, alt wiring, EFI wiring, and headlights. Everything else is located in the truck cab (including the MAF, tranny and t-case wiring which was in the plenum wiring before..., etc...)

What I really wanted was a just about stand alone harness to the computer that I could plug the dash into, but I guess that will come in time...
[Reply]
toytube 02:25 PM 07-28-2006
i have the diagrams for the ecu for early 85-89 and also the later ones 90-95 just finished mine...you WILL need a knock sensor or you wont get any timing advancement...other then that the rest of the stuff Mike stated is correct....i just finished doing a 22RE swap...87 truck used 1990 harness and efi set up....any questions let me know...

ty
[Reply]
Numidian 10:11 AM 07-29-2006
Thanks for the info... I'm gonna have to think long and hard before I dig into this one LOL... I'll dig up the wiring diagrams and start going over them also...

If your harness was about $300 cheaper I'd be all over that LOL... Def looks like an awesome product, but I'm a cheap bastard and if I spent that much I might as well kick in the extra to go to the pane...

Thanks again.
[Reply]
ORS 12:55 PM 07-29-2006
Brennan,

We understand the $ thing. Just take your time and I'm sure you'll get there!
[Reply]
LowDown 10:00 PM 08-11-2009
I'm bringing this thread back up because Brennan and I have been going through his harness over the last two days. I'm also hoping Seabass44 (12voltguy.com) will post up too.

Brennan's truck is 100% trail truck; we've deleted out all the factory "accessories" like lighting, hvac, wipers, etc.
We're using a 12voltguy.com "Comp 6 Plus Ignition" panel for ignition and to control future accessories like lights and are planning on putting the fuel pump on one of switches as well.

Please let me know what you think of our plan of attack:
1. Replacing the "Main Relay" with a dedicated relay; will be switched on with panel's primary power switch. To provide power to EFI not including the fuel pump. To provide switched +12V for future accessory power/relays.

2. Separate the fuel pump circuit from the AFM. Doing this by placing fuel pump on a dedicated relay, controlled by a switch on the panel. Relay will be "hot" when the panel's main power is switched on. Fuel pump turned on/off by panel switch.

Darren, question about the panel. We're confused on why the panel has the fuse block? It's there to fuse the switch side of a relay circut (switched +12V to the relay) right? The reason I'm asking is because it doesn't seem like the panel's wiring is heavy enough to carry more than 10A (a guess) or so, through the actual switches, right? Over 10A, and you're looking @ relay circuits. If you need relays, then the relays need to be protected as well, right?
[Reply]
SeaBass44 07:26 AM 08-12-2009
switches & wire will carry 21a, switch max
over that use a relay
power into panel needs fused, heavy fuse big enough to handle full load, usually 100a , you have 7 x 21a so a max of 147a, but fuse block is rated at 80a max all circuits, so do not run over 80a through the fuse block at any one time + yes relays battery sides also need fused.you do this usually close to the battery, 30a relay, use 30a fuse.
otherwise what you want to do sounds correct
[Reply]
LowDown 11:13 AM 08-12-2009
Thanks for the response. Like Brennan said, papers got wet so we couldn't read anything. If you didn't already, you should include the amp ratings and fusing you just mentioned in an instruction sheet for your panels.

If the wiring and switches can support 21A, it sounds like I can run the fuel pump directly through a switch on the panel and avoid having to use a relay.
Can anyone verify how much amperage the fuel pump draws?
[Reply]
Numidian 01:45 PM 08-13-2009
Does anyone have a pinout for the MAF connector?
[Reply]
Numidian 05:58 AM 08-14-2009
Bump, anyone?

85 22re MAF connector pinout...
[Reply]
crazy sammy 10:13 PM 12-01-2010
hi i have a 85 extra cab with a 22r motor and i also just bought a 1990 with a 22rec motor and i havent ever done a motor swap like this before and was wondering if i need all of the hrnesses out of the 90 or just the on from the computer if you could help me with this i would very much appreciate it
[Reply]
94toytruck 06:36 PM 12-03-2010
Numi ever get that POS working?
[Reply]
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